Yesterday we met Sajid at the train station and went to the Wagha border with him by taxi, following the Grand Trunk Road.
As we got there early, we had lots of Chai (tea) and played Badminton in the car park. It was also the one day match between Pakistan and India (cricket), so a perfect day to see the crossing!.
As the gates opened a queue was formed at a ticket office. As we stood in line Sajid was called over by one of the Rangers, and then followed a long conversation. It turned out that as Maurice and I were wearing Pakistani clothes (and Maurice has been know to get confused for being a local) and Sajid was wearing western, they had been confused as to where we all came from. When they learnt that we were foreigners, we were allowed to go through without paying as tourists do not pay (for once!), and Sajid was allowed in for free as well as he was with us. After continuous persuasions from Sajid, each porter at different gates, allowed us to go in before any body else so that we could get the best seats! Good boy!.
The border has two arches, one for Pakistan and one for India. Separating the two countries are gates and flag poles of each flag.
As the crowds gather in the grounds, each country competes with each other with toe tapping, high pitched, trumpeting music, getting the crowds on each side more excited.
PAKISTAN! PAKISTAN!
When the ceremony begins, the Pakistani Rangers (dressed in black army clothes and with severely starched turbans that have high fan tails reaching up to the sky) perform this amazing marching, stomping, leg kicking, roaring performance and an old man in a green and white t shirt and grey hair runs up and down the stands with a Pakistani flag in his hand, egging on the crowds more.
PAKISTAN! PAKISTAN!
When the gates open, each ranger from each country march, in turn, up to the gates. Their speed and sound of their feet stomping on the pavement, make the crowds shart clapping Again "he's going to the gate". The gate is opened and more leg kicking and saluting and quickly shake hands with their neighbor country (i have to admit that I was expecting them to put their thumbs to their noses, wiggle their fingers and stick their tongues out!) The little 'green' man inspires the crowd even more.
PAKISTAN! PAKISTAN!
After bring down each flag so that they cross at the middle, a few more shouts and stomps the ceremony is over. My face hurt so much from smiling from the beginning to the end.
We then watched the end of the Pakistan vs India match and Pakistan won.
PAKISTAN! PAKISTAN! (ok enough of that now)
we got back into the city and said our goodbye to Sajid.
We had been invited to Malik's home (the hostel owner) for dinner. It had been arranged that Maurice was going to cook, but when we got there, Malik's wife had already made a few dishes, but Maurice cooked anyway. Maurice would say that his food was not as good as it could've been (as he had problems with time and ingredients), but it was wonderful.
Anna, the Norwegian lady was there as well, and she had a bottle of vodka with her, Malik loved it and drank quite a lot!. We were put into a wonderful bedroom and had a good sleep.
After breakfast this morning, the three of us went for a walk around Maliks area and took a walk in the gypsy camp are in the town and had tons of little children running behind us shouting "se-ven-ty! se-ven-ty" - still not too sure why!.
We were playing around with them and taking pictures of them. A cart pulled by a donkey came past and the kids were so excited that they wanted us to watch when the stood on the back of the cart, so that the donkey (only held up by his mouth grip) struggled around in the air. Poor donkey.
As we left camp, we had made them so excited that they trew stones at our backs as we walked away. We understood thought that it was just being over excited!.
In the evening, after freshening up at the hostel, the three of us went out again for dinner. We went to a place called Coco's which is just opposite the Mosque, beautifully lit up. Such a cosy rooftop restaurant, the food was ok, but it was the place itself that attracted us. After we had eaten, we went downstairs and looked at all the art work that the owner paints. His only subject is prostitutes. It might sound a strange subject, but his reason behind it is to give the women some sense of identity. As well as the paintings on display, Coco's it is full of lots of beautiful old stuff - kind of saves you from going to a museum!.
Tuesday, February 07, 2006
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