Pakistan. The Khyber pass

After a little confusion on when and where to meet Rafi this morning, he finally showed up in a taxi with a friend called Habbi. We drove to the PA office and were issued our visitors permits and our own tribal armed guard.
We took a taxi to smugglers market and from there have found a friend who had a van and could take us up there and back. As we left smugglers market, which is a very busy area, we drove towards the start of the pass and the traffic grew thinner and thinner.
The start of the pass begins with an arch to signify the end of Peshawar and the beginning of the tribal areas.
The beginning of the road is wide and flat, in the distance you can see white sentry boxes where armed soldiers once stood on guard. As we got closer to the mountains, the road became more zig zagged as we got higher and higher.
We stopped at a lookout point, down, through the mountains into Peshawar, giving wonderful views of the now disused railway lines and their tunnels. We got out and took numerous photos of the view and each other. Although he was not allowed to, our armed guard let us hold his kalashnikoff (spelling)and even let Maurice shoot it twice. I was too much of a chicken to do that. More photos of us and the gun, then back into the car.
We had another stop at a place called Ali masjid fort which was a strategic point of view over the ranges.
At the village of 'landi Kotal'-the original Smugglers market (as opposed to the 'new' one closer to peskier that is bigger) we stopped and had the local green tea with another one of habis friends in his shop. Then on again and another stop at the highest point for a lookout towards Afghanistan.
At Torkham, the border point, we had a quick look round the area from the ground, then went onto a roof top of one of the restaurants, and then went to have a look at the border crossing itself.
On the right had side of the entrance to Afghanistan, a short staircase took us up and we could look over at Afghanistan, but still on Pakistan soil. Totally cool. Watching these people walk through from either side, unapposed, through the border crossing.
Children carrying boxes and packages on their heads, men with white caps and women in Burka's (in the typical colours of the local tribes- light blue, Soldiers with guns and sticks to control the people and the Afghanis and the Pakistani's resting from their journeys and preparing for their next in an amazing back drop of jagged, rough and inhospitable mountains.
We went back to the restaurant where they had prepared our lunch of Lamb. It was served on the rooftop on a blanket on the floor. We all sat there cross legged and our food was brought out to us. A huge plate of heavily salted lamb on the bone with a very natural flavor. So tasty. Another huge dish of lamb, cooked in its own juices and tomatoes, and lightly spiced. Absolutely delicious. Then another dish with home made Chapatis, still warm from the oven. A wonderful lunch that will last us all day and will be remembered as the most traditional dish we have had here. As we were eating, two USA helicopters flew overhead. The Pakistanis round the table went very quiet, until Maurice broke the ice and asked the guard if he could borrow the gun a minute. They visibly relaxed after that!.
On our drive back we passed the fort of an International drug smuggler who was made famous when the USA put him on their 'MOST WANTED LIST' and he handed himself in as he knew that they could not prove anything. And was right. He now lives in this fort with his own Army.
Our driver (who found it absolutely hilarious when, as we were leaving the restaurant, Maurice stopped and took a photo of the toilet as it was completely overflowed. He would not stop laughing and shaking his head)asked us if we would like to go to his village in the mountains to have tea. We all agreed and we got off the road and up to his village. We entered and were given chairs to sit on.
As we sat the leader of the village came and asked us if I would like to see see the house, where all the women were. I jumped at the chance and was taken by the drivers brother in to the house.
I was immediately surrounded by the women and children of the family. The Elders greeted me first, some with handshakes, others with hugs and kisses. After Salaam Amamalkuming almost all of them I was brought inside, along with the brother - who spoke fantastic English and managed o translate everything that myself and the ladies spoke to each other.
The eldest of the women greeted me, saying that she was very privileged to meet me as she was old, and I was the first white woman that she had seen and that had made her very happy. I replied with the fact that I felt also privileged to be in their company, such a beautiful, welcoming family. She was very happy with my response and the younger girls looked shyly away, but giggling, when he translated that they were beautiful.
One young girl who was so scared of me, they kept pushing her towards me to greet me, but whenever I caught her eye, she would turn away scared!. I scared her so much, she hid on the floor behind a chair. Finally, when I followed her and ticked her, she gave up ad I got a smile and a greeting from her.
Another girl was brought to me, as she had very pale skin (the tribes people have lighter skin than others, but this one was as white as me)She was completely stunned by me. She was only young, maybe 3 years old, she took my hand and would not let go, just staring at me. I took her onto my lap and she sat there the whole time, quietly, comfortably and stared at me. The family said I too take her home with me as she was the same colour as me!.
Throughout all of this I was fed nuts , dried fruits and dried chickpeas, cakes and lots of Chai.
When it was time to go, goodbyes, kisses and hugs were given to me and we drove off with lots of waving.
Back in the car again, and a fast, weaving journey down the hills. We ended up in smugglers market, where we said goodbye to our driver and the guard.
Then Rafi went bathroom tile shopping!.